Last winter, the afternoon before my youngest child’s 16th birthday, my husband said: “I think your should make a cake, after all it is an important birthday and I think a homemade dessert would be appreciated”. I am not the cake baker in the family, my spouse is. I often buy cakes or make birthday sweets that are less traditional: one year there was a giant cookie cake with butter cream icing, earlier a flourless chocolate cake and another time a dark chocolate salted caramel pie. When presented with the thought that I was tasked to make a last minute cake (not a purchased one), my thoughts were these: what would my youngest want that I already had ingredients for? We had flour, brown sugar, raisins, butter, eggs…what could I make that was unusual, simple, yet celebratory? Then it dawned on me, I could make a pan version of our favorite summer pastry: butter tart squares.
Have you ever had a butter tart or for that matter heard of one? For those of you new to the idea of a butter tart, it is a classic Canadian treat. The traditional kind is a small pastry with a baked filling of brown sugar, butter, eggs and raisins. Everyone has their own spin on these little delicacies.
For many years, when staying at our cottage in Ontario, we have tried to find the baker that makes the best butter tarts. At the very beginning of the summer 2022, my 16 year old said to me, “when we are at the cottage we have to go to the Cornball Store, my teacher said they have the best butter tarts“. Having arrived three weeks before my daughter, I decided we would test the claim that this little store in Magnetawan, Ontario truly had the best tarte au beurre (as they are called in French) by taking road trips. Not unlike the birthday sweets I make, unusual locations appeal to me. Wherever we went this past summer, in addition trying the areas “best” gooey filled pastry, we would attempt to visit an obscure spot.
On The Road To Find The Best Butter Tart
In early August 2022 my youngest child and I set out on our first road trip of the summer. Both of us enjoy ingenuity and things a little off the beaten path, so we had a planned a visit to an art park after our main destination: The Cornball Store . The day was slightly dark and drizzly, I had called ahead and preordered the butter tarts so there was no worry the delicacies would be sold out when we arrived. After about 1.5 hours drive, the unassuming little convenience store/ bakery was in our sights. Our interaction with the owner was benign, we were thanked for ordering ahead as there was a staffing shortage. You might think we would leave the store and have the long anticipated treat, but we had already had a snack and didn’t want to ruin the experience. My 16 year old and I, after stashing our treats in the cooler bag, were on our way to the planned experience: The Screaming Heads sculpture garden.
When we arrived, there were no other cars in the lot. Peacocks were wandering around behind a fence, designed as a spiderweb, that was the artist’s private property. Both of us wanted to take pictures of the beautiful birds, so we went to the gate that shut off the property and started snapping photos.
There was a man on property, and he invited us in to take pictures up close. As the pictures were taken we chatted with this man. Names weren’t exchanged, but we learned he was the artist. He told us that growing up he lived in an undesirable part of Hamilton, Ontario. After university he moved north and taught art and science in a high school near Burks Falls, but has been retired for over a decade. We wandered around his private yard and talked about his birds and the monoliths he created and still makes. During COVID lockdown the Ontario Provincial Police told him to close the park, lest he be fined a lot of money. The gate was locked and the sculpture garden was closed, but people came anyway. I asked why he made such a unique space, his response was “It is my silent protest to the awful world we live in”. Truly, however, something uniquely beautiful was built! Come and take a tour with me.
When my daughter and I were finished walking the land with mammoth sculptures, we stopped at the information booth and talked with the woman who was sitting inside. She told us the artist’s name is Peter Camani. He only asks for donations to keep the place running and his birds fed. Apparently there is a music festival every fall; this would be an incredible experience. I could imagine the beautiful landscape surrounded by the changing leaves in the forest that Mr. Camani planted himself! As we left, we made a donation and a wish.
We needed something to eat after our visit to the Screaming Heads sculpture garden, so we went to the Pulled Smokehouse & Welcome Center, next to the “falls”.
Once we finished eating, there was desire for something sweet. The butter tarts under the glass cake dish had looked good. I suggested we split one and leave the pastries in the car undisturbed. Walking to the counter, I enquired whether the butter tarts were good. The young man I asked said: “ Before I tasted these homemade ones, I never understood why people loved butter tarts- these are incredible!”. I immediately bought one of the last they had in the cake stand. When the tart was brought out, we cut it in half. The crust was buttery and flakey, the filling sweet and slightly gooey- had we found the best butter tart already?
Late in the afternoon we arrived back to our cottage. That evening, after dinner, my mother, sister, daughter and I each had the anticipated dessert from the Cornball Store. My mother asked, “Do you think this is the best butter tart?” I mumbled, “we may have had the best at lunch.” My sister said, “You will have to continue your search.”; so we did….
A week later, we were off again, this time to go rock hounding in Bancroft, Ontario. This area of the country is on the Canadian Shield and is considered the mineral capital of Ontario. The plan was to go to the Princess Sodalite Mine, however we stopped at the Town of Bancroft Municipal Office to find out if there were any other mines nearby. We were given a flier with a list of several places to look for gems. The morning was spent at the Princess Sodalite Mine: a rock farm with a fenced off rock dump. Chipping away at the rocks was a lot harder than I expected, but fun nonetheless. Now I know why the price of gems can be so high!
We were ravenous after our morning adventure at the rock farm. Lunch had been purchased at a local restaurant in Bancroft before arriving at Princess Sodalite mine which was stowed in a cooler. I had chosen the restaurant ahead of time. Of course this restaurant, the Wattle and Daube Cafe, was a place that people claim had the best butter tarts in the area. We ate our yummy sandwiches in the car. The pastries were kept to share with my mother and her friend, Sue, who was visiting us. After lunch we continued hunting for rocks at the CN Rock pile: a free rock dump from the Golden-Keene Quarry. These rocks were mainly mica and quartz and had been put there for the construction of the town’s railway.
As we didn’t have time to venture further west, the road led us back to the cottage with the butter tarts safely inside our cooler. The day was so much fun! Sadly, however the butter tarts were unmemorable. Our search for the perfect butter tart went on!
A few days after our rockhounding experience came the anticipated trip to an area on the Georgian Bay called Collingwood. My mom, who doesn’t drive the Canadian highways anymore, needed a ride to the area because she was presenting her memoir to a book club. I had offered to take her at the beginning of the summer, anxious to explore more of the province I spent my summers in. This was an overnight trip and a friend of mine had graciously offered us a place to stay. My daughter, mother, Sue and I traveled south and west on the highway and through country roads. First we dropped my mother off, then we took Sue home as she lives in Collingwood. The rest of the day, my youngest child and I explored the area. We bought no butter tarts.
Late in the afternoon we went off the beaten path to Creemore where we saw (what is reportedly) the smallest jail In North America. We ate no butter tarts.
The next morning was beautiful! My youngest and I took advantage of the short amount of time we had left in the area: we went from Craigleith Provincial park, along the water, and then drove to the top of Blue Mountain to get the best view of the Georgian Bay.
My mother was picked up later in the morning, but there were two more places on the agenda to visit. The first stop was to the longest fresh water beach in the world: Wasaga Beach.
The second place was part of our butter tart tour and somewhere to stop for lunch: Midland, Ontario the home of Ontario’s Best Butter Tart Festival. This town has hosted the festival every year, in mid-June, since 2013; it was cancelled in both June of 2020 and 2021, due to COVID. Sadly, I am never north of the border at that time of the year, so I haven’t experienced this unique celebration. We were searching for the best butter tart, so it made sense to visit this town before heading back to the cottage.
After lunch, my daughter and I left my mother on a bench in the shade, while we walked up the street to buy pastries to take with us. There were two restaurants in Midland that were reported to have the best butter tarts in the area. Dino’s Fresh Food Deli And Midland Fish & Chips & Seafood. We purchased some tarts from each of these to take home. Apparently the way to eat the butter tart from the fish and chip place is deep fried with ice cream. Since we had just had and left my mother down the hill, we did not eat them deep fried. However, quite often, we do warm our pastries and top our treat with ice cream! Over the next few days we ate the newest butter tarts; they were good, but still didn’t compare to the one my daughter and I split at the Pulled Smokehouse & Welcome Center.
After lunch, my daughter and I left my mother on a bench in the shade, while we walked up the street to buy pastries to take with us. There were two restaurants in Midland that were reported to have the best butter tarts in the area. Dino’s Fresh Food Deli And Midland Fish & Chips & Seafood. We purchased some tarts from each of these to take home. Apparently the way to eat the butter tart from the fish and chip place is deep fried with ice cream. Since we had just had and left my mother down the hill, we did not eat them deep fried. However, quite often, we do warm our pastries and top our treat with ice cream! Over the next few days we ate the newest butter tarts; they were good, but still didn’t compare to the one my daughter and I split at the Pulled Smokehouse & Welcome Center.
Over the next few weeks, the two of us took a few more road trips:
There was the trip to Gravenhurst, where we were to attend the Dockside Festival of the Arts; the event was canceled due to potential storms. We did however walk the shops at The Gravenhurst Muskoka Wharf.
We bought some butter tarts that were scrumptious, at Wheelhouse Coffee in Gravenhurst; these tarts were baked at Paradise Tarts in Stirling, Ontario. Once we ate one of these butter tarts, we knew they were close to the best we had tasted, and inquired where the bakery was. The bakery is whole sale, not retail, therefor we couldn’t go to the store and purchase more. A few different flavors of butter tarts, purchased at the coffee shop, were brought back to share with my mother.
Then we had another adventure to the lookout tower in Dwight, Ontario. The voyage up and down the tower stairs was somewhat scary for me, as I am slightly afraid of heights. This excursion was well worth the climb; the scenery was breathtaking!
After our descent and a look through the artistic telescope statues, we headed to Henrietta’s Pine Bakery.
Although we had been to this bakery a few times in the past, we hadn’t been there since the summer of 2019. This bakery is wonderful and does have delicious baked goods, especially another Canadian treat: the Nanaimo Bar; their butter tart, in comparison with the other one’s we tried, still was not the best.
The last area we purchased very good butter tarts, at two different places, was in the town of Orillia. The tarts from Wilkie’s Bakery, although not super pretty, were delicious! Mariposa Market sold uniform, attractive looking tarts and were yummy! Although both bakeries sold really tasty treats, they were not the winners for the best tarte au beurre….frankly, I was actually getting tired of butter tarts!
The Day Of The Best Butter Tart
The day we ate the best butter tart of the summer was actually mid-August, between the trip to Collingwood and our excursion to Gravenhurst….my youngest daughter and I started our day with a hike at Huckleberry Rock Lookout Trail. This is supposed to be a short 1.8 mile walk out and back, with phenomenal views of Lake Muskoka. It was a clear morning and we set out early as the days were hot.
We walked back down the rock face, veering left. Somehow my daughter and I had gotten off the trail. As this mistake was realized, I suggested we head right. Eventually, the two of us reached the head of the trail. Getting lost added a fun twist to our morning adventure!
For many years, with the exception of 2020, my youngest and I have a tradition of a mother-daughter day in Port Carling. This was the day! After our hike, we freshened up at our cottage and headed to what has become a posh little town. By the time we arrived and parked in the town between two lakes, there was a long line at our favorite lunch spot: Turtle Jacks. We put our name on the list and eventually were seated in a sunny spot. As we were hot and looking over the parking lot, not the river, we asked to be seated inside where there were plenty of seats. Like everywhere else these days there was a staffing shortage (not in the wait staff, but perhaps in the kitchen). The food took well over an hour to arrive. By then it was raining and we were thankful for our inside move. In past years we have wandered the stores and then had ice cream at the top of the hill. That day my 16 year old looked at the dessert menu during our long wait. There was a picture of a large butter tart served with ice cream. “We should have this”, my daughter said. We ordered the desert to split. When it came, we dug in. Both of us looked at each other and agreed wholeheartedly that this butter tart, at a place we go to at least once every year, was the best! Sadly, we couldn’t take any back, nor could we figure out if we could order them for takeout. My mother was sad that we couldn’t bring any back; later, in early September, she also tried the scrumptious dessert at Turtle Jacks and agreed that it was truly The Best Butter Tart.
Soon It Will Be Winter
As winter approaches, I reflect on our summer search to find the best butter tart. Realistically I am aware that there is no way to know who bakes the most delicious pastry. Everyone has their own recipe, and there are hundreds, perhaps thousands of bakeries all over Canada that we couldn’t try. What I realize is that special memories were created for me and my youngest. If you told me that our search for the best butter tart was in vain, I would disagree. The success wasn’t really about finding the best butter tart but it was having time together: laughing, exploring and enjoying new places; because of that I am fortunate.
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